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Urban Exodus  |  All About Animals  |  Animal Health & Healing  |  Topic: Soy-Free Chicken Feed Recipes - for the health of your chickens and your family!
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Author Topic: Soy-Free Chicken Feed Recipes - for the health of your chickens and your family!  (Read 1915 times)
Whiterock
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« on: January 26, 2009, 02:15:25 PM »

Traditional Feed Recipes
from
THE POULTRYMAN'S HANDBOOK:A Convenient Reference Book For All Persons Interested in the Production of Eggs and Poultry for Market and the Breeding of Standard-Bred Poultry for Exhibition


by International Correspondence Schools, Scranton, PA
INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK COMPANY
1912

(Everything is quoted from the book, unless it is in square brackets "[ ]" in which case it is an entry by the ChickenFeed website.)

RATIONS FOR SIXTEEN HENS FOR 30 DAYS.

The accompanying table contains twelve desirable rations for feeding to hens. The quantities given in each division are sufficient for feeding 16 hens for 30 da., and provide about 4 oz/ of food daily for each hen. The whole grain in all these rations is fed by hand; the meal and meat in each is mixed together and fed either as a wet or a dry mash. Rations (i) and (j) are double, or two-part, rations. One-half of the daily ration is fed from each; the two answer for 60 da. Rations (a), (b), (c), and (d) are best suited to a promiscuous lot of fowls ranging in age from 6 mo. to several years. Rations (e), (f), (g), and (h), being largely composed of concentrated foods, are best suited for laying hens. Rations (i) and (j) are for laying hens that have free range and are able to pick up insects enough to supply their demand for animal food. Rations (i) and (k) are fed in hoppers as dry mash. The molasses feed used should be of good quality. Ration (l) consists of meals, wheat and milk; the meals should be moistened with the milk. In the use of all rations where meals only are mentioned, a daily ration for each hen should consist of 2 pz. or dry meal, fed wet or dry, and an equal quantity of whole grain.

[None of these rations furnish sufficient mineral matter for egg formation and for the other demands of nature. Grit, limestone, oyster shell, or some similar material must be supplied in addition, especially if chickens are confined in any way.]

Note: GRIT and OYSTER SHELL or SEA SHELLS are two entirely different things. Sea shells and other calcium-containing substances just dissolve in the chicken's. They cannot be a substitute for grit. [Grit is hard rock.] It is what grain-eating fowl need in place of "teeth" and it must be available in the right sizes. Substituting sea shells for "grit" is like giving someone false teeth made of chalk. I think the old timers had so many free range hens (notice the early use of the term "free range") that the hens got enough grit when they were out and about, so it wasn't a concern.


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30-DAY RATIONS FOR SIXTEEN HENS

Food.........................Pounds
   
(a)
Corn............................50
Oats or barley..............24
Wheat bran..................10
Middlings.......................5
Corn meal....................25
Meat scrap   ....................8
Cut clover....................10

(b)
Corn............................50
Oats or barley..............24
Wheat bran..................10
Flour middlings..............4
Corn meal...................28
Animal meal..................7
Cut clover....................10

(c)
Corn...........................50
Wheat.........................25
Corn meal...................28
Flour middlings..............2
Hominy chop...............10
Meat scrap....................7
Cut clover...................10

(d)
Corn...........................50
Wheat.........................25
Corn meal...................25
Wheat bran..................10
Middlings.......................5
Alfalfa meal...................4
Meat scrap   ...................7

(e)
Alfalfa hay or meal........18
Wheat bran...................10
Middlings.......................30
Coconut-oil-cake meal....10
Meat meal......................6
Wheat...........................60

(f)
Alfalfa...........................18
Wheat bran....................14
Middlings.......................17
Linseed-oil-cake meal......6
Blood meal.....................4
Barley or oats................25
Wheat...........................50

(g)
Corn meal.....................24
Wheat bran...................18
Alfalfa meal...................10
Blood meal.....................3
Meat meal.......................6
Oats or barley...............30
Wheat...........................40

(h)
Wheat shorts.................18
Corn meal.....................25
Blood meal.....................5
Alfalfa meal....................5
Cottage cheese.............12
Wheat...........................60

(i)
Wheat bran...................40
Middlings.......................20
Corn meal.....................20
Alfalfa meal...................40

(j)
Wheat...........................60
Cracked corn.................30
Oats..............................15
Barley...........................15

(k)
Corn meal......................10
Molasses feed.................20
Middlings........................40
Wheat bran.....................30
Meat scrap   .....................10
Clover hay.....................10

(l)
Middlings........................30
Wheat bran.....................24
Meat meal........................6
Skim-milk.......................90
Wheat............................60


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


FEEDING FARM FLOCKS

Farm flocks, to be profitable, must have a ration suitable for the production of both eggs and good table meat. No error in feeding farm flocks is more common or more disastrous than that of giving too much fat-forming food. [Note: this is confirmed by modern breeders.] An all-green ration renders the hens excessively fat, sometimes induces apoplexy, and causes the production of but few eggs. A grain ration for farm flocks may be composed of grains in the following proportions, by weight:

Food...........................Parts

Cracked corn.................20
Wheat...........................40
Oats..............................15


Cracked corn is preferable because it is small, and, like wheat and oats, when cast into litter must be sought for by the fowls. During the winter all grain should be thrown into dry chaff or litter of some kind in order to keep the hens busy hunting for it.

During the winter months the hens on the farm should have a noonday feed of warm mash, the mixture being composed, by weight, as follows:



Food...........................Parts

Corn meal......................40
Meat..............................30
Short-cut alfalfa
or clover hay..................30
Oyster shell......................2
Grit.................................1
Charcoal..........................1


The meat and hay should be cut into small pieces and voiled to a pulp, and before cooling the mass should be mixed with enough meal to make a dry, crumbly mass. This should be fed cool in troughs."
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aTurtleDove
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2009, 02:44:36 PM »

  Thank you Whiterock,

   I was wondering if this applies to all poultry? And if it is okay for waterfowl to eat it too?

   TIA,  Wink

      ><aTurtleDove><
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Whiterock
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2009, 02:49:45 PM »

I don't know.  Undecided
I found it when I was going thru some stuff on my computer, and thought it might be helpful to more folks than just me.

WR
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tonysgirl
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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2009, 04:29:01 AM »

In Joel Salatin's books, such as "Pastured Poultry" he gives rations too. I wonder how they compare. I haven't read the book yet. A couple from our church raises their broilers soy-free using his recipe. They take it to the feed mill and they mix a large amount for them at a time.
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Gigi
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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2009, 07:07:35 AM »

tonysgirl,

Maybe you could ask them what/how much they use for ingredients?

I have had a hard time getting ahold of some of the things that I know would be good to feed my birds.

Everyone looks at you like "You want WHAT??  Well, we don't got none of that, in fact I don't understand a word you just said.  No one here has ever asked for that before and we been raising birds for a million-jillion years.  Here, just take this pre-mixed Soy-Soy-Soy-Soy-Soy-with-extra-Soy feed we got here, it'll be just the ticket.  You don't need to read books to know how to raise birds . . ."

I don't mind the looks, (I get them all the time anyway   Roll Eyes)  but I can't even get information about where to get some stuff.





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Whiterock
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« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2009, 01:32:33 PM »

Here's where I got the above recipes:
http://www.lionsgrip.com/recipes.html

They have other recipes there, including one of Joel Salatin's recipes from '98, but they all contain soy.

WR
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SarahK
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« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2009, 05:52:14 AM »

There's a bit about feeding sprouted grain here on UE:
http://www.urbanexod.us/discuss/index.php/topic,7217.msg76199.html#msg76199
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Gigi
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« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2009, 07:41:40 AM »

SarahK,

Do you think that sprouted grains for chickens are better than whole grains?   I'm curious about your experiences doing this - do you think that the nutrients are more available for the chickens this way?

What are the benefits, from your experience?

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SarahK
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« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2009, 10:26:03 AM »

SarahK,

Do you think that sprouted grains for chickens are better than whole grains?   I'm curious about your experiences doing this - do you think that the nutrients are more available for the chickens this way?

Hmm... I don't know but this is what I think.
If the variety of food products are good for me (fresh greens and seeds and such), I think they would be a good variety for the hens.  We supplied them with scratch grains (cracked small grains of different varieties based on what we could get easy - no quinoa) and a grassy area as seasons permitted.  But the majority of their food ration was sprouted grains.

What are the benefits, from your experience?

Benefits:

Cheaper per volume of food.
Chickens preferred it over dry rations - scratch grains could go untouched for days.  In Summer they didn't want much of them at all - didn't matter which blend we had.  But the sprouts were always eaten right away.

Drawbacks:

More hands on labor.
Greater need to 'train' anyone who you got to chicken-sit while traveling.
More space needed.
Need a sprouting place that is protected from too hot/too cold.

We would certainly do it again.  We never had production problems with our hens - spring to fall was always heavy and, when we used a light, it only decreased by ~25% in the winter here in S.E. MN.
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Gigi
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« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2009, 11:55:54 AM »

I'm not a sprouting gal, but I'm familiar with the general idea.

For the chickens I suppose you would use a 5 gal bucket, maybe?  Could you forgo the rinsing and laying on the side thing and just put grains in a bucket and cover w/water, or does this not produce the desired result?

I've read of folks who "ferment" the grains for their birds this way.  Any thoughts about that?

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SarahK
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« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2009, 01:11:35 PM »

Could use a 5 gal pail I think.  I would put a chunk of window screen strapped on with a bungee chord or shock cord or something.

If you leave the seeds in water, they will 'drown'.  If you don't rinse them, they dry out and die.  So I think you have to keep rinsing them.

Don't know about fermenting.  Never tried that one... intentionally.  I've had some sprouts get sour smelling in the bottom of the jar just they didn't drain well.  Chickens ate them either way.


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Gigi
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« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2009, 07:02:31 AM »

I've had this information in my bookmarks for a while and I just ran across it again and thought I should post it in case it would be helpful.

This place sells organic, SOY-FREE animal feed, as well as bulk grains.  Perty $$$, but seems like the real thing.

Maybe if you live close to them (VA) you wouldn't have to pay shipping.  I don't live close enough to be able to afford it . . .

http://www.countrysidenatural.com/cnp_store/home.php


Another source for organic poultry feed (with soy) or organic bulk animal grains (mix your own food w/o soy!) is here:

http://www.organicfeeds.com/default.htm

They are located in central PA.  You can check to see if they have a distributor in your state.









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mykidsmom
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« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2009, 09:27:12 PM »

We're getting ready to buy hens this spring and don't want soy feed so this is perfect timing to see this!  Can someone tell me what middlings are?  I have no idea what that is.  Never even heard of it.  I would be using the "I" ration as these will be laying hens.  Can I buy ground form of this stuff already or does it have to be ground by me?  I'm thinking I would buy it from our Azure. 

patti
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Whiterock
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« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2009, 08:49:47 AM »

I think middlings are the waste from cutting and milling wheat --ya' know, the stuff that drops to the floor and such.

WR
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Whiterock
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« Reply #14 on: February 07, 2009, 08:54:16 AM »

Oh, and don't forget.... "Rations (i) and (j) are double, or two-part, rations. One-half of the daily ration is fed from each; the two answer for 60 da."

WR
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joeswife
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« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2009, 10:44:38 AM »

anyone use red worms as the protien source. What would a daily ration per chicken look like? amount of worms vs. grain?
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